KCI등재
Dress and Ideology during the Late 19th and early 20th centuries Korea, 1876~1945
저자
발행기관
학술지명
International journal of costume and fashion(International Journal of Costume and Fashion)
권호사항
발행연도
2011
작성언어
English
주제어
KDC
381
등재정보
KCI등재
자료형태
학술저널
수록면
15-33(19쪽)
제공처
소장기관
The late 19th and early 20th centuries of Korea were the times when the Confucianism (性理學) ideology was shaken heavily under the influences of modernism and capitalism by Western and Japanese military and political-economic forces. Under such circumstances, alteration of clothing was much influenced by ideologies than changes in social structure or technological advance. In this study, an ideology was defined as the force which drives people into a particular social order. Ideologies were postulated as an ongoing process of socialization with dialectic features rather than being a static state Comparative analyses on conflict structures and different clothing patterns symbolizing the ideologies of the Ruling (支配) and the Opposition (對抗) were conducted. Investigating dresses as representations of ideologies is to reconsider the nation of dichotomous confrontation between the conservatives (守舊派) and the progressives (開化派) and a recognition of Koreans` passively accepting modernity during the Japanese occupation. This may also have contributed to enlightening Koreans about modernization. Here are the results. First, the theoretical review found that ideologies were represented by not only symbols of discourse, but also dresses, and that dresses embodied both physical and conceptual systems presenting differences between ideologies and their natures, Second, during the late 19th century Korea, conflict between conservatives` Hanbok (韓服) and progressives` Western suits (洋服) was found. Moderate progressives showed their identity by Colored Clothing (深色衣), and radical progressives by black suits with short hair (黑衣斷□) or by western suits (洋服). The ultimate goal of both parties was a Modern Nalion. With these efforts, pale jade green coats and traditional hats symbolizing the nobleman class was eliminated within 30 years from 1880 to 1910. and then simple robes and short hair emerged. However, the powerful Japanese army had taken over the hegemony` of East Asia, and Korea was sharply divided into modernization and pro-Japanese camps. Third, during the time of Japanese colonial rule, the dress codes having set by the modernization policies during the time of enlightenment were abandoned and colonial uniforms for the colonial system was meticulously introduced During this period, Western or Japanese-style uniforms were the symbol of the ruling ideology. In the mean time, Hanbok, particularly White Clothing (白衣), emerged as a representation of the opposition ideology. However, due 10 Japan`s coercive power and strong zeal for Great orient (大東亞), white clothing remained as a mere symbol. Meanwhile, Reformisis (實力養成論者) movement toward improving quality of life followed a similar path of the Japanese policies and was eventually incorporated into the ruling ideology. Fourth, dresses as representations of ruling ideologies were enforced by organizational powers, such as organizations and laws, and binding policies, and changes in such dresses were more significant when the ruling ideologies were stronger Clothing of the opposition ideology was expressed as an aggregation of public consciousness. During the period, the subjects of ruling ideology and the objects who were granted modernization benefits were djfferent although their drives for colored clothing with short hair (色衣斷髮) for modernization were similar.
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