일본 지배계층 복식의 변화와 양상 = The aspects and the change in clothes of the ruling class in Japan

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

The purpose of this study is to investigate the aspects and the change in and the characteristics of court dress of the ruling class women of the Nara-Heian period of Japan by comparing the clothes of the ruling class of the early Nara-Heian period to those of the middle and late Heian period.
In the early Nara-Heian period, the types of clothes included Ungeon, Baeja, Dae-Soo-Eui, Joong-Dan, Nae-Eui, Goon-Seub, Pye-Seul, Bi-Dae, and Young-Gun. Bo-Gye was put on the head and Mal and Seok were worn on foot. On the other hand, in the middle and late Heian period, the clothes such as Dang-Eui, Pyo-Chak, Ta-Eui, Gyu, Dan, Sang, Go, Bi-Rye, and Gun-Dae were put on. Bo-Gwan was put on the head and Mal and Seok were worn on foot.
The comparison of the clothes of the two periods showed that the Chinese-style clothes in the early period had changed to Japanized clothes in the middle and late Heian period. The simple composition of the Japanese-style clothes led to invent a new ways of wearing clothes layering another clothes over clothes. While there were changes in the name and composition of Baeja and Dang-Eui, Bi-Dae and Gun-Dae, and Young-Gun and Bi-Rye, the purposes of wearing those clothes were not been changed.
This change in the composition of clothes made the clothes in the middle and late Heian period to be more decorative and massive as well as more varied in colors compared to the clothes in the early Nara-Heian period. It can be noted that this change is highly related with the composition of the clothes and ways of wearing the clothes.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• 〈Abstract〉
• Ⅰ. 서언
• Ⅱ. 나라·헤이안시대의 정치와 사회 문화적 배경
• Ⅲ. 지배계층 복식의 양상
• Ⅳ. 지배계층 복식의 변화양상과 특징
• Ⅴ. 결언
• 참고문헌

참고문헌 (Reference)

• 1 関根真隆, "奈良朝服飾の硏究(圖錄編)" 吉川弘文館 3-, 1974
• 2 関根真隆, "奈良朝服飾の硏究(圖錄編)" 吉川弘文館 62-, 1974
• 3 関根真隆, "奈良朝服飾の硏究(圖錄編)" 吉川弘文館 17-, 1974
• 4 高橋健自, "奈良時代の女裝" (10) : 1928
• 5 박동석, "일본역사와 정치 그리고 문화" 좋은날 44-45, 1999
• 6 김문길, "일본역사와 문화" 형설출판사 72-, 1998
• 7 이자연, "일본 고분시대의 하니와의 복식에 관한 연구" 7 (7): 25-, 1999
• 8 "본 연구에 언급된 지배계층이란 직급을 가진 계층을 가리키는 용어로 사용되며, 명기된 일본어의 한글표기는 처음 나오는 글자에 한하여 한글(한자, 일본어발음)로 병기하였으며, 일반적으로 널리 알려진 주요지명과 시대구분 등의 명칭은 일본어 발음을 한글(한자)로 표기하였다"
• 9 "길상천녀상의 복식이 나라시대 여자예복이라 주장하는 関根真隆(関根真隆(1974), 奈良朝服飾の硏究(圖錄編), 東京: 吉川弘文館, p.17.), 高田倭男(高田倭男(1995.4), 服裝の歷史, 東京: 中央公論社, p. 56)의 이론을 근거로 제시한다)"
• 10 "길상천녀상(吉祥天女像)의 명칭은 학자에 따라 길상천화상(吉祥天畵像)이라고도 불리어지나, 본 연구에서는 통상적으로 명명되는 길상천녀상의 명칭을 사용하기로 한다"
• 11 相川佳予子, "服裝史" 相川書房 130-, 1984
• 12 相川佳予子, "服裝史" 相川書房 124-, 1984
• 13 相川佳予子, "服裝史" 相川書房 125-, 1984
• 14 井筒雅風, "日本女性服飾史" 경춘사 52-, 2004
• 15 井筒雅風, "日本女性服飾史" 경춘사 49-, 2004
• 16 井筒雅風, "日本女性服飾史" 경춘사 42-, 2004
• 17 井筒雅風, "日本女性服飾史" 경춘사 57-, 2004
• 18 井筒雅風, "日本女性服飾史" 光琳社 44-, 1986
• 19 北村哲郞, "日本服飾史" 衣生活硏究會 65-, 1992
• 20 北村哲郞, "日本服飾史" 衣生活硏究會 66-, 1992
• 21 伊原 昭, "平安時代の服飾美" 157 : 20-28, 1977
• 22 鷹司綸子, "公務勢力轉換期にみる服裝の變動" 158 : 38-49, 1978
• 23 增田美子, "位色の變遷と朱花" 增田美子 : 27-45, 1980
• 24 華梅著, "中國服裝史" 天津人民美術出版社 13-, 2005
• 25 이자연, "《源氏物語會圈》을 통해 본 일본 헤이안시대 지배계층의 여자 복식" 한복문화학회 11 (11): 151-161, 2008