고대 동아시아 복식비교에 의한 고조선 복식의 전통

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This paper focuses on the content and level of Old Joseon dressing culture, a country having comparatively pure culture of its own, by comparing with that of other neighboring countries. As a result, it was identified that the common view of the original form of ancient Korean garments being descended from garments of China or barbarian garments of northern China was not true.
The Old Joseon's dressing style can be summed up as followed. The Old Joseon people wore byun(弁), check(?), or jeolpung(折風) in almost all of the regions around the Korean Peninsula and Manchuria. The ancient Koreans seemed to practice the same customs by considering the fact that the four countries, ancient Korea, Northern Buyeo, Beckjae, Shila inhabiting in the Korean Peninsula and Manchuria, placed a feather on their jeolpung. Later, the ruling class used feathers made of gold, silver, or gilt bronze.
In Old Joseon, people sewed round shaped or leaf shaped ornamental buttons on not only their hats but also on their clothes, armors, shoes, and bow cases, or made them as earrings altogether forming a magnificent and high-standard dressing style since 25th century. This dressing style is a distinctive feature of the ancient Koreans that cannot be seen in China or other northern regions. Later, round or leaf shaped ornaments with jeolpung became a major style of gold crowns. Therefore, it can be said that gold crowns are not accomplished by the external influence, but instead an expression of ancient Korean peoples' intrinsic style, leaf-looking ornamental button style, and trunk style through their ceremonies as well as the widespread change in hats.
Ancient Korean peoples' outfit is categorized as sam(衫), yoo(?), and poh(袍). Men wore sam, women yoo, and poh, which is characterized by its long and wide sleeves, was worn both by men and women.
Closure and sleeves were important factors in discussing the origin of ancient Korean dressing. Old Joseon people wore large sleeves and this was followed later by ancient Korea, Bekjae, and Shila. Such comparison and inspection on closure and sleeves are important factors in revising the traditionally accepted theory of ancient Koreans' dressing being originated from garments of northern Chinese barbarians.
Pants and dresses, which are ancient Koreans' lower garments, are not the products of Chinese or northern region's influence, but instead an intrinsic inheritance of Koreans tracing back to the Old Joseon Period. Ancient Korean men wore pants as outfits and women wore them inside their dresses.
The Chinese mainly wore narrow pants since Sang(商) Period until Spring and Autumn(春秋戰國) Period. During Jin and Han(秦?漢) Period, they wore relatively wider pants, but tied them at the knees. Nevertheless, such Chinese styled pants are not seen in ancient Korean dressing.
Regardless of class, ancient Koreans tied their pants at the end during 6th century until they started to stitch around their pants instead of tying in 7th century. There were wide and normal pants and long pants and pants that were tied under the knees. It is thought that the width and length are differentiated for convenience in different types of work rather than a way of showing social status.
Like pants, it has been cleared that ancient Koreans' dress style was not a product of Chinese or northern region's influence. The characteristics of ancient Koreans' dress style are as followed. Ancient Korean women always wore pants as undergarments and dresses as outfits and these dresses were largely divided into those with lines at the waist and others with lines at the edge.
The following differences appear when comparing ancient Korean dresses and Chinese and norther region's dresses. Only women wore dresses in ancient Korea, but both men and women wore them in China. Both ancient Koreans and Chinese wore dresses under outfits and upper garments. But, Chinese upper garments were short in length and did not have s

목차 (Table of Contents)

• Ⅰ. 고조선복식을 보는 비교연구의 시각
• Ⅱ. 관모양식의 비교와 고조선의 관모
• Ⅲ. 웃옷과 겉옷양식의 비교와 고조선의 복식
• Ⅳ. 아래옷양식의 비교와 고조선의 복식
• Ⅴ. 고조선복식의 고유성과 전통 재인식
• 〈참고문헌〉
• 〈Abstract〉

참고문헌 (Reference)

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