朝鮮時代의 服飾刺繡에 관한 硏究 = The Study on Coustume's Embroidery of Yi(Chosun) Dynasty
저자
鄭在純 (培花女子大學 衣裳科)
발행기관
학술지명
권호사항
발행연도
1991
작성언어
Korean
KDC
041
자료형태
학술저널
수록면
173-199(27쪽)
제공처
The embroidery had been developed, for the first time, by decorating it on the garments according to aesthetic consciousness from the time when human appeared on the earth, and according to development of age, the embroidery come to use to the interior decoration. And also according to racial characteristics, religion, natural features and weather, it can be said as a cultural product which has developed in every aspect. Such embroidery started from our women's hands, and if without the women, such delicate art work could not be made.
We can dare say as the women's mission that the embroidery can splendidly develop as an art fitting the women's disposition. And the embroidery can not only attract the women's hobby life to a sound direction but also the embroidery aims at pursuing the principal beauty of the art work, therefore the embroidery can grow emotion and it can lead sublime spirit of art creation and composed mind attention to a cultivation state.
That such embroidery has generated necessary to the human's daily life is the same as the general industrial art. As for the origin of the embroidery, the embroidery technique has generated from the time when cotton, linen and silk have developed. In an ancient times, when our ancestors made costumes, it was problem how to combine with the both edges of cloth, but according to development of fish born, animal born and medal needle, the sewing technique used not only to a simple practice but also for the purpose of decoration. So we come to think that this technique will be developed as an embroidery technique after a while time 1.
From such point of view, the embroidery which occupies a genre of art can be explained according to the materials, tools and technique which used at that age the consciousness experienced by the human and emotional mean experienced by human for an age, Note: World Great Encyclopedia(14 books) published by Pyongbum Sa Co., Tokyo on Sep 19, 1957. 1). We can observe historically the aesthetic sense expressed on it and characteristics of the aesthetic value.
In this report, this reporter would like to observe how the embroidery was historically developed thinking collectively on the embroidery which becomes an side of Korean folk custom and folk art.
In the second place, I would like to find out the emotional mean which Korean become conscious and experienced and on the other hand I would like to make clear its characteristics, and this reporter aims at clear up the aesthetic problem which definitely shaped. But because the embroidery has a weak point such as weakness of the materials quality, easy corrosion and indurability, the existing works are limited to the work after the Yi Dynasty(Chosun).The former's work handled the generation of the Korean embroidery and artistic mean or its tendency through literature, and this reporter would like to observe the transition of the Korean embroidery and its characteristics. Concludedly, I am going to inspect closely the selected main subject from the work and observe aesthetically the embroidery's nature of form and nature of art.
As the embroidery is re-recognized as a genre of art. various studies have been carried out in every aspect. Among them, the valuation on the artistic value which the past day's embroidery had is included as an important study object. Up-to-date, our country is placed in the real state of lossing the traditional culture by rough wave of the western Eurpe's culture. Such environment is not exception in embroidery. Accordingly for seeking for our traditional embroidery art. I finally observed and closely analyzed the embroidery of Yi Dynasty(Chosun).
Frist, embroidery of Yi Dynasty(Chosun) had a long-term traditional history and absorbed and assimilated many things among our racial emotion, and the historical change of our embroidery was no more than any imported demand at all. The embroidery has been formed and developed with historical flow as a natural generation because the embroidery was fitted constantly our racial unique fondness which was fond of color's harmony and delicacy of form. Also the embroidery is as the same as other arts, the embroidery began for the practical purpose at the first time, but at that time, the embroidery was connected with our life emotion, and we symbolically explained our simple desire or the embroidery was purely developed as an ornamental art work.
Next, beauty of Yi Dynasty(Chosun) has been existed by usefulness, and principally the beauty has been studied the practical face of the industrial art features of the industrial art beauty which is composed of a limited beauty differ from the nature of fine arts, and the embroidery handled indirectness, discomfort and industrial nature by the time when non-individual character and work made by common property, legal character, shape and artist's hands accomplished. Such industrial beauty forms an aesthetic system among embroidery which is developing with an age character, and the work is formed as a part of spiritual activity, and modem and future embroidery has aesthetic problem unavoidedly, and it will accomplish an aesthetics. At last, the utility was began its purpose among the Yi Dynasty society forming the rood and trunks of the nobility class, and the aesthetics of Yi Dynasty which was developed longing for aesthetic decoration attained the highest perfection of the Korean beauty, and an element of the Korean beauty-beauty of the embroidery goes with it.
In conclusion, generally judging the features of embroidery of Yi Dynasty (Chosun), first, in the main subject, the main subject is divided into realims and abstraction, and the realism is divided into animals and plants, and abstraction is divided into print types and letters and it was observed form the ancient affairs and desirable point of view. Especially, in the main subject of the work, it chiefly selected the natural scenery, flower birds and coarse artistic desire and it was a reflection of living emotion being based on ethic view and nature of people of Yi Dynasty(Chosun).
Second, in the composition of the work, they used the fixed pattern or re-expressed fully with the bottom picture from a deficit of originality of embroidery, but on the other hand, for completion of the bottom picture, we can not pass over the point at all which variously developed technique which could express as an embroidery in order to show vividly reality of an object.
In conclusion, presently we found out what is our tadition, and it is time for us to look back ourselves. In an embroidery art, in order to seek for our characteristics and tradition, we need keenly of thoroughly aesthetic observation on our embroidery inheritance. This reporter has found our characteristics and tradition among Yi Dynasty(Chosun) which is unbrokenly flowing through the living mode at the age and a serious observation such as sensibility by figuralizing the embroidery.
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