족두리에 관한연구

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This is a study of CHOK-DU-RI(簇頭里), a black crown-like headpiece worn by woman on formal occasion in Chosun Dynasty, and has succeeded until now. CHOK-DU-RI was originated by BOKTAK, worn by Mongolian noblewomen and inflowed to the last period of Koryo Dynasty under occupation of Yuan. The documentary records of O-JU-YON- MUN-CHANG-JON-SAN-KO(五洲衍文長箋散稿) by Lee Kyu-kung, CHUNG-JANG-KWAN-JON-SUH(靑莊館全書) by Lee Tock-mu and KO-SA-TONG(古事通) by Choe Nam-sun verify CHOK-DU-RI is a custom of mongolian fusion that was affected by KO-KO of Yuan and was formed. KO-KO(故姑) is the same as BOKTAK(БОГТАГ). It is assumed KO-KO is a borrowed name, as its transcription varies. The name was given according to its appearance, which is certified by the record CHANG-CHUN-CHIN-IN-SEO-BANG-YU-RAM-KI(長春眞人西方遊覽記). It says that it can be simply named KO-KO, as its edge is alike a goose or a duck. In addition, KO-KO was called CHOGTAI in case of being added a camel fur, that is JUGDUR. CHOGTAI similarily pronounced with CHOK-DU-RI, which proved CHOK-DU-RI was originated in Mongol. The shape of BOKTAK is very high and wided toward the top, with the angle getting more pointed and a feather stuck on the side. But its height got lower and its size smaller as it did gradually Koreanized to a CHOK-DU-RI. The use of CHOK-DU-RI has been settled since the last period of Chosun Dynasty. It came to stay as a popular custom when King Young-jo and Jong-jo, wanting to do away with the corrupt practice of KA-CHE(가체), encouraged women at that time to do their hairs with CHOK-DU-RI instead of KA-CHE, It is as follows the classification of CHOK-DU- RI. First, classified by a use, the group is divided into ceremonial use such as the seven treasures CHOK-DU-RI and jeweled CHOK-DU-RI, a use of sacrificial rites such as plain CHOK-DU-RI, and a use of funeral rites such as white CHOK-DU-RI. Hereby it is assumed that CHOK-DU-RI was used regardless of fortune. Secondly, it varies by its type of frame. There are SOM(padded) CHOK-DU-RI, HOT(single- layer) CHOK-DU-RI and O-YOM CHOK-DU-RI, a kind of SOM CHOK-DU-RI, formed a base of 0-YOM-MO-RI. The third group by jeweling has WHE-BONG(single-pole) CHOK-DU-RI and TA-BONG(multi- pole) CHOK-DU-RI. Jeweled CHOK-DU-RI can be still seen being commercially lent and worn by the brides at nuptical ceremonies performed in tradition of fashion and when worn by a bride as she gives her parents to her parents-in-law.