토코페롤에서 유도된 기능성 화장품용의 새로운 계면 활성제 = Polyoxyethylene Tocopheryl Ethers; A Series of Novel Surfactants from Tocopherol for Functional Cosmetics

국문 초록 (Abstract)

기능성 화장품을 위한 일련의 새롭고 독특한 비이온 계면활성제들을 생리활성물질인 a-Tocopherol과 에칠렌옥사이드의 반응에 의해서 제조하였다. 반응 생성물의 구조는 H¹-NMR, FT-IR, 원소분석, TLC를 통해 확인하였다. EP0에 대한 POV 와 CDV 연구에서 POE(n)TEs는 모두 토코페릴아세테이트와 유사한 항산화효과를 나타내었다. 그러나 POE(5)TE, POE(10)TE, P0E(18)TE의 광용혈에 대한 세포막보호효과는 Control에 비해 높은 결과를 나타내었다. POE(10)TE의 자외선흡수능은 Homosalate와 유사하게 나타났다. Primary Skin Irritation, Primary Eye Irritation 및 Acute Oral Toxicity 테스트결과 POE(n)TEs의 안전성이 입증되었다.
P0E(n)TEs의 계면화학연구에서는 POE(10)TE가 가장낮은 CMC값을 나타내었고, POE(18)TE는 Maximum surface tension reduction과 최대 Foam volume을 보였다. 화장품의 실질적인 응용을 위한 테스트 결과 W/0유화에서는 POE(5>TE, 0/W유화에 서는 POE(10)TE 와 POE(12)TE, 분산에서는 POE(12)TE, 가용화에서는 P0E(18)TE, 겔화에서는 POE(50)TE가 우수하였는데, 이것은 POE(n)TEs의 구조적특성과 Liquid Crystal형성에 기인한 것으로 여겨진다.

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

A new and unique class of nonionic surfactants was synthesized by reacting biological a-tocopherol with ethylene oxide for functional cosmetics. The structures were confirmed by Hl-UMR, FT-lR, TLC and elemental analysis. POV and conjugated diene value study for EPO showed POE(n)TE had antioxidative effect similar to tocopheryl acetate. Protective effect on cell membrane in photohemolysis of POE(5)TE, POE(10)TE and POE(18)TE were slightly lower than tocopherol but higher than nonoxynol-12, and POE(10)TE had UV absorption power comparable with tocopherol and homosalate. Biological activity of the hydrophobic group of the new surfactants make them unique and different from those of conventional nonionic surfactants.
Systematic safety evaluations of POE(n)TEs on the skin and eye proved that they are as safe as tocopherol. The results of physicochemical study showed POE(10)TE had the lowest CMC value, POE(18)TE had the maximum surface tension reduction and the highest foam volume and POE(n)TEs had various HLB values by the degree of ethoxylation.
The test results of technological and practical applications of these surfactants for cosmetics showed some POE(n)TEs were superior to conventional surfactants. POE(5)TE in W/O emulsions, POE(10)TE and POE(12)TE in O/W emulsions, POE(12)TE in dispersions, POE(18)TE in solubilizations and POE(50)TE in gelations were shown to be excellent which was considered due to the structural characteristic and formation of liquid crystals of POE(n)TEs.
By the development and applications of these excel lent multi-functional surfactants, innovative functional cosmetics were successfully formulated.