패션일러스트레이션에 나타난 예술적 표현특성의 기호학적 분석

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

Fashion illustration has been developed, focusing on a fashion genre among visual arts. The purpose of fashion illustration is to interpret fashion images with visual expression and communicate the meaning with the public. In delivering and interpreting information of fashion illustration, the theme and meaning of visual arts should be systematically analyzed. In addition, semiotic approach is necessary to analyze images.
The purpose of this study are to construct a system for semitotic analysis of fashion illustration. Second to identify the effects of accurate communication and the value of characteristics of visual arts by classifying artistic expression characteristics using the semiotic analysis of fashion illustration.
To analyze artistic expression shown in overall fashion illustration image, we collected a total of 1125 fashion illustration works through books, artists' homepage and Internet. In addition, to analyze fashion illustration found in recent collections, a total of 561, which were all based on human bodies, were selected from 14 seasons collections from 2005 S/S to 2011 F/W.
Before analyzing the image, an analytical model for fashion illustration was developed first. The analytical model is based on the perspectives aesthetic semiotic view of Morris and consists of three syntactics; syntactics, semantics and pragmatics. The structure syntactics refers to the formal relationship with symbols. Expression factors of fashion illustration including attribute symbols (e.g. lines, colors and texture), practical symbols (e.g. shape) and rule symbols (e.g. field and items) are fallen into this category. The meaning syntactics includes the meaning of expression, theme and nature as the relationship between symbols and objects. The function syntactics is related to delivery of expression as the relationship between symbols and their users. There are three different deliveries; the instructional delivery for detailed images, the aesthetic delivery for sensibility and aesthetics and the sociocultural delivery for the period and symbolism
The six different artistic expression characteristics were found in the fashion illustrations examined; romantic expression, feminism expression, sensual expression, color field abstract expression, surreal expression and pop artistic expression.
The semiotic analysis results of artistic expression characteristics using the analytical model developed above are as followings;-
First, this study identifies artistic expression characteristics of fashion illustration images through semiotic analysis.
In the case of romantic expression, syntactics showed as bright or dark lines, original colors, natural texture and feminine elements such as rounded hair style, dress, hat and jewellery. It means traditional female images in the meaning syntactics. For the function syntactics, the romantic expression is emerged as retro trend or emotional trend, which has preference on reactionism fashion with classic, romantic and elegance images.
With regard to the feminism expression, syntactics showed that there are straight lines, slant lines and equal weight lines together with black and red color and brightness and saturation contrast. In addition, certain items such as trousers, shirts and jackets are found. The meaning syntactics suggests strong male expression. In addition, it is found that it shows noble beauty of women by delivering detailed androgynous images and powerful images in terms of the function syntactics.
The sensual expression used curves or free lines, brignt and dark lines and red, black and purple colors in the view of the structure syntactics. It shows voluptuous beauty in the meaning syntactics point of view due to laying human bodies, red lipsticks and body exposure. On the other hand, it stresses on sexuality of women by delivering detailed images of sexuality and eroticism through the instructional delivery.
The color field abstract expression used purple, red and blue color in the structure syntactics and delivers mysterious images in the meaning syntactics. In terms of the function syntactics, it regards women as mysterious existence and seeks new visual art by allowing arbitrary interpretation with delivery of the inner message of human mind.
With regard to the surreal expression, straight lines, free lines, cut lines and slant lines with black color are frequently used in terms of the structure syntactics. Human bodies are displayed in distortion, separation and strange connections. On the other hand, as space is drawn in multiple perspective and overlapping effects, it suggests surreal expression in the meaning syntactics. The surreal expression delivers grotesque images, deconstructivism images and fantastic images in the function syntactics. The imagined world containing disorder, unbalance and chaos is presented as a psychological message while the sociocultural message implies disorder and chaos of the modern society and imperfection of human beings.
In the case of the pop artistic expression, equally weighted lines were shown and strong color contrast and vivid tones were used frequently in the structure syntactics. In addition, natural shape and abstract shape were found and multiple space could be found. by suggesting a social character, popularity and symbolism can be placed on it. With regard to the function syntactics, cartoon images, humorous images, minimalism images, symbolic images and casual images are delivered. This expression implies and delivers fun, play, daily story, the heart of a child, amusement and current affairs as psychological messages, social satire, parodies and identification as sociocultural messages and commercial delivery effects as public message.
Secondly, according to the result of semiotic analysis of artistic expression of fashion illustration found in the modern fashion, characteristics of romantic, feminism, sensual, color field abstract and pop art expression are similar with those of fashion illustration image.
In most of the clothing showing artistic expression characteristics, pop art illustration expression is most frequently found, followed by surreal expression. As romantic, feminism, voluptuous, and color field abstract expression can be expressed with formative nature of fashion, they may not be often found in illustration. However, surreal expression can be emphasized by formative nature of fashion. On the other hand, it is assumed that pop art illustration expression is the most effective way to build fashion look and display overall feeling of fashion.
In terms of the season, illustration in modern fashion is more frequently found in SS than F/W. The phenomenon may happen because patterns are replaced with illustration and a variety of patterns is more suitable for bright season.
In sum up, this study suggests a systematical framework to interpret visual images of artistic expression trends found in fashion illustration by constructing the semiotic analysis system of Morris. it is expected that the results of this study can contribute new acknowledgement on relationship between artistic trends and fashion illustration and practicalization of arts and artistic expression of fashion, which are the trend of the times, to be obtained.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• Ⅰ. 서론 1
• 1. 연구의 필요성 1
• 2. 연구의 목적 2
• 3. 연구의 내용 및 구성 3
• Ⅱ. 이론적 배경 4
• 1. 패션일러스트레이션 4
• 2. 기호학 7
• 3. 예술적 표현경향 15
• Ⅲ. 연구 방법 26
• 1. 작품 수집 26
• 2. 분석 방법 28
• Ⅳ. 패션일러스트레이션 표현특성의 분석체계 29
• 1. 통사론적 차원의 패션일러스트레이션 분석체계 30
• 2. 의미론적 차원의 패션일러스트레이션 분석체계 43
• 3. 실용론적 차원의 패션일러스트레이션 분석체계 45
• Ⅴ. 기호학적 분석에 따른 패션일러스트레이션의 예술적 표현특성 48
• 1. 패션일러스트레이션 작품에 나타난 예술적 표현특성의 기호학적 분석 48
• 1) 낭만적 표현특성 48
• 2) 페미니즘적 표현특성 55
• 3) 관능적 표현특성 61
• 4) 색면추상적 표현특성 67
• 5) 초현실적 표현특성 72
• 6) 팝아트적 표현특성 78
• 2. 컬렉션에 나타난 패션일러스트레이션의 예술적 표현특성의 기호학적 분석 86
• 1) 낭만적 표현특성 89
• 2) 페미니즘적 표현특성 92
• 3) 관능적 표현특성 95
• 4) 색면추상적 표현특성 99
• 5) 초현실적 표현특성 102
• 6) 팝아트적 표현특성 106
• Ⅵ. 결론 및 제언 110
• 1. 요약 및 결론 110
• 2. 연구의 제한점과 제언 115
• 참고 문헌 116