中國古代 女子冠服 制度 硏究 : 商, 段代부터 秦代까지 = A Study on the Pattern of Women's Costumes in Ancient China (Ⅰ)
저자
任明美 (同德女子大學校 家庭敎育科)
발행기관
학술지명
권호사항
발행연도
1985
작성언어
Korean
KDC
050
자료형태
학술저널
수록면
269-299(31쪽)
제공처
소장기관
In shang and eun era, as various references show, people used head dressings called “Kye” which is a kind of wig. They decorated their hair using various kinds of “Kye”. There were hairstyles which looked like a lijard tail. Some jade head sculptures show earrings, but it may be from the influences of the northern neighboring nations rather than their won.
As an upper garment, they wore lined jackets with curned collars, jacket shirts and narrow sleeves-considered to be a kind of a “Shim eui”-and they used belts. Heavily pleated skirts or slacks were worn under them.
Coat lengths varied. Some were down to the knee, calf and the ankles. Ladies of high classes wore longer coats. Shoes were made of grass, hemp, arrowroot, silk or leather depending on the seasons and had sharp fromts.
A ceremonial custom was established in chiou dynasty, and the chou lyue-the chou ceremonial custom-became the back-bone of the dress custom of ancient china. There are records about ceremonial dresses for queens and aristrocratic ladies to wear on different occasions-in palace, memorial services, official activities, daily lives and marriage ceremonies.
Empresses wore a wig called `Bu' as a head-dressing which was decorated with `Boyos' or decorated their hair with `Walja' or `Dali' and used various hairpins-Kye-to prevent hair from falling down.
During the chou dynasty, Shim Eui (one-piece clothes) which were made by jaket and skirt sewn together were adopted as ceremonial dresses. Empresses had six dresses-three `Jeog's and three `Eui's.
All of them were made of silk. They looked alike in styles, distinguishable only from the symbolic patterns and colors on them. Ajong them, `Wee-Eui' was made by twelve peasants (`Hua-chung' among twelve imperial symbols) painted on reddish black background color, `Wee-Eur' was used as a ritual dress for the late king. `Yu Jeog' __ a ritual dress for the late prince-had twelve peasants painted on blue color. `Kwal Jeog', had twelve uncolored peasants on red color background and was used as a ritual dress. `Kug Eui', a yellow dress without any decoration, was a dress of cultivated silk ceremony. A white colored dress for the occasion of seeing a king or participating on a banquet was called `Jun Eui' a pink lined black dress was called `Youn Eui' and was used when they went into a palace to see a king.
One thing to be clear, `Jeog Eui' is not just a stereo-typed dress made of 154∼160 pairs of peasants on dark blue colors for queens. In other words, they were different in their colors, patterns ways of putting the patterns or ornament materials according to the differences in dynasties, occasions or social status of the wearers.
Aristocratic ladies used different colors, patterns and matericals according to the ranks of their husbands. Ladies wore `Youn Eui' and `So Eui' when they got married or when they went to see parent-in-law. During memorial services, they wore `Suk' as shoes or `Ku', `Li' or `Whye' on other occasions.
During the `Chun-chu-Jun-kuk' period, people wore hats with belts. They combed their hair down and bound it in the back. Marrieal women had generally their hair piled up on the backof the heads-a hairstyle called `Eun Jung' style. Young girls had two Braids, called `Yue Ki', just like the one nowadays.
Since Shang and Chu, middle and low class people wore jackets with narrow sleeve and short length, called `Ho Bok'. Jackt had curved collars and narrow sleeves and were of ankle, knee or midi-lengths. They also wore skirts or slacks.
Hems were widely trimmed, and sleeves were generally `Bi Pa Su'-big sleeves with narrow opening. Furs were sometimes used for the hem trimmings.
It was typical of the time to wear wide belts to make the waist look alim. They showed flowers, clouds, fretworks or patters on dresses. The materials were thin and light twill, thin flat wave silk net-like silk silk crepe or various woolen fabrics.
Industrial arts were highly developed such that wearing jade became a custom since. Young girls wore `Oza', a coat of Won dynasty, and `Dan Tong Wha', boots similiar to rubber boots of nowadays.
In Chin dynasty, aristrocratic ladies wore `Bu Yong Kwan'-a hat of an dvanced dress custom. They decorated hats with different hair ornaments, also there were hair styles called, Sin Sun Kye'. They wore net-like silk `Sam' and fine colored skirts and `Bae Ja' over them. Shoulder covers called `Pee Back' or scarves were used.
In palace, they wore shoes with gold print decorations of cloud phoenix and a phoenix head on the nose.
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