지리산오갈피, 가시오갈피, 오갈피나무, 오가나무 추출물의 항염증, 피부장벽개선, 항노화 효능 비교 = Comparison of Anti-inflammatory, Skin Barrier Improvement, and Anti-aging Efficacy of Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis and various Eleutherococcus Genus Extract

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

Inflammation caused by active oxygen and the resulting barrier damage have been consistently pointed out as the cause of wrinkle formation. In this study, effective index ingredient search and efficacy analysis were performed to verify the value of use as a functional cosmetic material related to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin barrier improvement, and anti-aging for extracts of four types of Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis (ED), Eleutherococcus senticosus (EN), Eleutherococcus sessiliflorus (ES), and Eleutherococcus sieboldianus (EI) belonging to the Eleutherococcus genus. To identify the effective index composition, the content of the ingredients was measured by high-performance liquid chromatography. The content of eleutheroside E and chlorogenic acid was the highest in ED among the Eleutherococcus genus. As for anti-oxidant activity, DPPH radical scavenging activity was the highest in ED.
In anti-inflammatory effects, ED extracts inhibited nitric oxide generation in inflammatory macrophage cells due to lipopolysaccharide by 40% at 100 μg/mL. In the case of IL-6 inhibition, which is known as a pro-inflammatory cytokine, ED showed 41% inhibition at 100 μg/mL. In addition, filaggrin and involucrin, which are skin barrier-related factors, were increased by 2.5 times and 1.6 times, respectively, in 100 μg/mL of ED extracts, and as for the collagenase, which is a wrinkle-related factor, ED extract showed 29% efficacy at 100 μg/mL. Thus, these result suggested that ED extract, among the four Eleutherococcus genus, can be used as a cosmetic ingredient for suppressing inflammation in the skin, reinforcing the skin barrier, and reducing wrinkles.

국문 초록 (Abstract)

활성산소로 인한 염증 유발과 그로 인한 장벽손상은 꾸준히 주름생성의 원인으로 지목되어 왔다. 본연구에서는 오갈피나무속에 속해있는 지리산오갈피와 가시오갈피, 오갈피나무, 오가나무 4종의 추출물에 대한항산화, 항염증 및 피부 장벽개선, 항노화 관련 기능성 화장품 소재로서의 활용가치를 검증하고자 유효 지표성분탐색과 효능 분석을 수행하였다. 먼저, 오갈피나무속 식물인 지리산오갈피와 가시오갈피, 오갈피나무, 오가나무각각을 50% 에탄올을 용매로 추출, 농축, 동결건조 하여 시료를 제조하였다. 유효 지표성분탐색을 위해 주요지표 성분인 eleutheroside E와 오갈피나무속에서 주로 검출되는 폴리페놀류 중 chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid 에 대하여 고성능 액체크로마토그래피를 통해 성분 함량을 측정하였으며, 오갈피나무속 중 지리산오갈피에서eleutheroside E와 chlorogenic acid의 함량이 가장 높은 것을 확인하였다. 항산화활성은 DPPH 라디칼 소거활성이 지리산오갈피에서 가장 높았으며, 항염증 효능의 경우 LPS로 염증이 유발된 대식세포 내 NO 생성 억제효능은 가시오갈피, 오가나무, 오갈피나무 추출물 100 μg/mL에서 각각 25%, 26%, 32% 일 때 지리산오갈피추출물 100 μg/mL는 40% 억제 효능을 보였고 pro-inflammatory cytokine으로 알려진 IL-6 발현 억제 효능은가시오갈피, 오가나무, 오갈피나무 추출물 100 μg/mL 농도에서 각각 20%, 36%, 23% 일 때 지리산오갈피추출물 100 μg/mL는 41% 억제 효능을 보였다. 또한, 지리산오갈피 추출물 100 μg/mL에서 피부장벽 관련 인자인filaggrin, involucrin의 발현이 각각 2.5 배, 1.6 배 증가되었으며, 주름관련 인자인 콜라겐분해효소는 29% 억제 효능을 나타내어 오갈피나무속 4 종 중 지리산오갈피는 피부의 염증 억제와 장벽강화, 주름개선용 화장품소재로써 활용가능하리라 판단된다.

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