전통 매듭의 조형적 특성을 활용한 텍스타일디자인 연구 : 침구 디자인을 중심으로 = Study on textile design with traditional knots' formative characteristics applied : focused on bedding design

국문 초록 (Abstract)

오늘날 정보화와 세계화라는 큰 변화의 물결 속에 디자인 영역에서의 국제적 교류가 활발하게 이루어지고 있다. 이러한 흐름 속에서 우리 문화의 본연의 색깔을 살려내고 문화적 우수성을 세계에 전파하고자 하는 움직임이 지속해서 일어나고 있다. 이에 우리 민족문화의 소산으로 역사적·예술적·학술적으로 한국적인 고유 조형 가치를 가지고 있는 전통공예의 소재, 기법, 문양 등을 현대적으로 접목해 패션 및 패션 소품에 활용하며 감성소비를 창출하는 사례가 늘고 있다.
그중에서 무형문화재 제22호 전통 매듭은 생활예술의 일종으로 우리 민족의 얼과 색깔을 고스란히 드러내는 다양한 형태와 구조적인 특징을 가지고 있다. 종류가 다양하고 직선과 곡선이 조화를 이루며 선의 아름다움을 지니고 있는 전통 매듭은 앞으로 세계인의 공감과 관심을 끌 수 있는 소재로 충분하며 현대적으로 해석한다면 다양한 활용 가능성과 부가가치를 지니고 있는 요소이다.
인간의 밀접한 생활과 관련된 국내 침구시장은 주거(Living) 시장의 10%를 차지하고 있으며 수면과 주거생활에 대한 가치관이 바뀌면서 침구류에 대한 수요가 급격히 증대되고 다양화되었다. 이처럼 사용자들의 개성을 나타낼 수 있는 주거환경을 꾸미려는 욕구가 증가함에 따라 소비자들은 침구의 기능과 디자인 면에서 전문화와 차별화를 원하고 있다.
따라서 본 연구는 침구 디자인의 영역을 넓히고 경쟁력을 높이기 위해 침구 디자인의 소재, 문양, 색상 등 디자인 경향을 전통 매듭 문양이 가진 조형미와 독창성과 접목해 텍스타일 디자인에 적용하여 전통과 현대가 아름답게 어우러진 한국적인 디자인을 제안하는 데 목적이 있다.
연구의 방법 및 범위로는 이론고찰을 위해 전통 매듭의 개념 및 조형적 특성과 텍스타일디자인, 침구 디자인 등 선행연구 및 관련 문헌 자료들을 수집하고 분석하였다. 전통 매듭을 활용한 디자인 사례분석을 위해 매듭장과 여러 작가가 제작한 작품과 국내 2014년 2월 기준 국내 포털 점유율 3위 이내인 네이버, 다음과 구글 코리아에서 ‘전통 매듭’의 검색어를 입력하여 검색되는 전통문화상품 온라인 사이트 검색 중 순위가 높은 쇼핑몰과 보도 자료를 중심으로 각각의 사례를 살펴보았다.
현황분석을 위해서는 백화점 점포별 매출 순위에 따른 상위 10위 내에 자리매김하고 있는 롯데, 신세계, 현대 3개의 백화점 입점 브랜드 중 독립적으로 온라인 홈페이지를 보유하고 있는 브랜드를 선정하여 디자인에 적용된 소재, 색상, 문양별 특징을 분석하였다. 앞서 분석한 전통 매듭의 조형적 특성과 침구 디자인 현황 분석을 바탕으로 전통 매듭의 상징적 의미를 반영하여 기본매듭과 응용매듭을 활용하여 디자인하였다.
디자인 기획 및 제작을 위해서는 Adobe Illustrator CS5와 Adobe photoshop CS5 프로그램을 사용하여 기본 모티브 및 스타일 패턴디자인을 전개한 뒤, 시뮬레이션(Simulation) 작업과정을 통해 제품화 가능성을 제시하고 일부는 DTP(Digi
tal Textile Printing) 장비를 이용하여 원단 출력 후 침구를 제작하였다.
본 연구를 통해 얻은 결론은 다음과 같다. 첫째, 전통 매듭은 우리나라 민족의 정체성을 반영하고 있는 전통문화의 요소로, 자연미, 균형미, 상징미로 그 특징을 종합할 수 있음을 알 수 있었다. 이와 같은 전통 매듭의 특성과 매듭의 기본 모티브는 복합적으로 활용할 수 있으며 현대의 홈인테리어 텍스타일의 다양한 스타일을 충족하는 디자인적 가치가 있음을 확인할 수 있었다.
둘째, 전통 매듭을 활용한 디자인 사례분석을 통하여 전통적인 매듭의 형태와 소재를 충실히 재현한 제품과 기념품적인 성격이 강하고 휴대성이 높은 다양한 활용 용도에 맞춘 제품, 기존의 섬유소재에 금속소재를 접목과 과감한 해석과 변형을 시도하는 등 전통매듭이 다양한 산업 영역에 활용됨을 확인할 수 있었다.
셋째, 침구 디자인 현황 분석을 통하여 침구 디자인에서 나타나고 있는 대표적인 모던한 스타일의 기하학적인 문양, 로맨틱한 감성이 느껴지는 꽃문양, 내추럴 스타일의 식물문양 등 현대 침구 경향에 전통 매듭을 접목해 대량생산이 가능한 텍스타일 디자인을 제안하여 더욱 자유롭고 창의적인 디자인 적용이 가능하였다.
본 연구가 오늘날 소비자의 취향이 다양화와 차별화되고 있는 시장에서 한국의 전통적 요소인 전통 매듭과 현대 디자인 경향이 접목된 침구 디자인으로 향후 전통문화의 계승과 발전에 대한 문화, 사회적 요구에도 부응할 뿐 아니라 나아가 세계무대에서 경쟁력을 갖춘 독창적인 디자인 제품으로 자리매김할 수 있기를 기대한다.

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

Today, these gigantic changes called informationization and globalization are bringing about active international exchanges in the field of design. In such situation, a series of movements not only to utilize original colors of our culture but also to introduce cultural excellence to the world is being constantly conducted. In the light of that, even more of applications to create emotional consumption using materials, techniques, designs and others of traditional crafts that have Korea’s own historic, artistic and academic formative value as fruits of our national culture are on the rise, and the applications contribute to creation of fashion and fashion-relevant items.
Of those outcomes of the national culture, a traditional knot as in Intangible Cultural Treasure No. 22 is a part of living arts, and it is recognized for diverse shapes and structural characteristics that would describe spirits and originalities of our nation as they are. Harmony of straight lines and curves including beauty of the lines feature in the traditional knots that come in various types, and the knots are good enough to attract emotional sharing and interests of citizens of the world, and once the traditional knots are interpreted in contemporary ways, they have many possibilities of great practicality as well as a high level of added value.
The domestic market of bedding closely related to life of human beings is taking up 10% of a residential market, and these changes in beliefs in sleeping and residential life have dramatically increased and diversified a demand for bedding. As described above, the increasing demand for decorating living environments to present originalities of users is consequently making consumers to seek for specialization and differentiation in relation to functions and designs of bedding.
After all, in order to expand the area of bedding design and strengthen the competitiveness, this study first applies bedding design trends such as materials, patterns, colors and others to formative beauty and originality of the traditional knot designs and then, tests these new designs on textile design. The study, in short, aims to present a Korean design with traditions harmoniously combined with modern tastes.
As for a research method and scope, the study needed to conduct theoretical investigations and collected and analyzed advanced researches and relevant literature on traditional knots’ concepts and formative characteristics, textile design, bedding design and others. In order to analyze traditional knot-applied design applications, the study reviewed decorative knot making and work-pieces created by many different artists and entered a search word, ‘traditional knot’, in Naver, Daum and Google Korea, the three biggest Korean portal sites as of February in 2014 to find traditional cultural products websites. Of the websites, these most-preferred online shopping malls and press releases were examined.
In regard to the current status analysis, of brands that had been launched in three department stores, Lotte, Shinsegae and Hyundai, in a list of the top ten department stores, brands that had their own online websites were selected on a basis of in-store sales. The study then looked into characteristics of materials, colors and patterns that had been applied to designs. Referring to the traditional knots’ previously-analyzed formative features and current status of bedding design, the study reflected symbolic significance of the traditional knots and made designs out of basic knots and applied knots.
In terms of design planning and production, the study used Adobe Illustrator CS5 and Adobe photoshop CS5 to develop basic motifs and style pattern designs and then, via a process of simulation work, the study discussed a possibility of commercialization and as for a few of the designs, it printed out fabrics using DTP and created bedding.
Conclusions gained through the research are summarized as follows. First, as an element of the traditional culture that is reflecting our national identity, the traditional knots signify natural, symmetrical and symbolic beauty. Such characteristics and basic motifs of the traditional knots can be complexly applied, and the study confirmed that the knots have design value to satisfy various styles of modern home-interior textiles.
Second, the study carried out an analysis on the traditional knot-applied design applications and learned that the traditional knots are being used in several different fields of industries. The study found some products sincerely reproducing forms and materials of the traditional knots, highly portable and versatile as souvenirs and consisting of daring interpretations and transformations as the products had combined existing fabrics with metals.
Third, a research on the current status of bedding design reported that geometric patterns of representative modern styles, floral patterns that feel romantic and sweet and botanical patterns of natural styles and others that are being observed in bedding design worked with the traditional knots. To sum up, the traditional knots had been grafted onto the contemporary bedding trends which proposed textile designs for mass production, and the designs were applied in even more unrestricted and creative ways.
This study discussed bedding design that had been created upon a Korean folk element, traditional knot, combined with modern design trends, and it argued that not only will such bedding design gratify succession and development of the traditional culture as well as cultural and social demands but it will be also this original design product competitive enough to survive the world stage.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• 국문초록
• I. 서론 ······························································· 1
• 1. 연구배경 및 목적 ···················································· 1
• 2. 연구방법 및 범위 ···················································· 3
• II. 이론적 배경 ······················································ 6
• 1. 전통 매듭의 정의 및 역사 ·········································· 6
• 1) 전통 매듭의 정의 및 특징 ········································ 6
• 2) 전통 매듭의 역사 ··················································· 9
• 2. 전통 매듭의 구성 및 조형성 ······································· 16
• 1) 전통 매듭의 구성 및 용도 ········································ 16
• 2) 전통 매듭의 조형적 특성 ········································· 35
• 3. 홈인테리어 텍스타일의 종류 및 스타일 ························· 45
• 1) 홈인테리어 텍스타일의 종류 ······································· 45
• 2) 홈인테리어 텍스타일디자인의 스타일 ···························· 47
• 4. 침구의 개념 및 구성 ··············································· 55
• 1) 침구의 개념 ························································ 55
• 2) 침구의 구성 ························································ 57
• 3) 침구의 소재 ························································ 60
• III. 디자인 현황 및 사례 ··········································· 67
• 1. 전통 매듭 활용 현황 및 사례 ······································ 67
• 2. 침구 산업 현황 및 사례 ··········································· 74
• IV. 침구 텍스타일디자인 기획 및 제작 ··························· 88
• 1. 침구 텍스타일디자인 기획 의도 및 전개방법 ·················· 88
• 2. 작품 제작 의도 ····················································· 94
• Ⅵ. 결론 ··························································· 136
• 참고문헌 ····························································· 138
• ABSTRACT ························································ 143