제국, 전쟁, 남성성 -트렌치코트와 20세기 초 영국 사회- = Empire, War and Masculinity -Trench Coats and Early 20th Century British Society-

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

The ‘trench coat,’ which originated as waterproof coats for British military officers in World War I, was popular among the British non-elite classes and women in the early 20th century. This means that certain value systems implicit in the trench coat had an appeal transcending lines of class and gender. This thesis asserts that ‘empire,’ ‘war,’ and ‘masculinity’ form the core of that value system. First of all, the image of military officers wearing trench coats served as a representation of physical vitality, ans attribute necessary for ‘the glory of the British Empire.’ Next, the popularization of the trench coat was due to the fetishising of the military spectacle, now possible on an unprecedented scale due to total war conditions. Finally, as the trench coat was the uniform of the military elite of the British Empire, it functioned as a symbol of ‘participation in the war`` and ‘citizenship``; use of trench coats thus allowed women to take advantage of these symbols as a means of entering a public sphere monopolized by men. Consumerism played a vital role in this threefold process: advertisements presenting the trench coat not only as desirable and fashionable, but also as an embodiment of nationalistic and imperialistic ambitions flooded the market. In addition, the capitalistic development of clothing production created material conditions that could satisfy popular demands for the trench coat. This reveals the collusive relationship between capitalism, nationalism, and imperialism.