근대 조리서 분석을 통한 서양요리 연구 = A study on western cuisine through the analysis of cookbooks published in the modern times

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

Today, dietary lifestyles of Koreans have become westernized. The origin of the westernized diets can be traced back to when the Joseon dynasty was opened due to the Treaty of Ganghwa in 1876. After the opening, the Joseon dynasty signed trade treaties with world powers, such as the US, Great Britain, Germany and Russia, and Western culture and civilization were introduced. Some Joseon government officials were dispatched as a delegation to overseas countries, and they placed on record their interest in Western culture and civilization and the need to introduce them. In the civilian sector, missionaries visited Korea to spread Western religions and studies and Western grocery stores and restaurants began to appear. The imperial family and families of the nobility also accepted Western culture and civilization. For cultural exchange with foreign countries, they held Western banquets to serve foreign guests, through which products of Western civilization were spread such as Western food, tableware, architecture and technology. After the fall of the Daehan Empire, Korea was colonized by Japan. During the Japanese colonial rule, Koreans thought that they should accept Western culture and civilization to gain national independence and improve national prosperity and military power. As a result, the lifestyle of Joseon people, including food, clothing and shelter, gradually changed.
This study analyzed cookbooks with records about Western cuisine, published in Korea during the period from 1897 to 1960, to examine how Western cuisine was introduced to Korea as the times and dietary culture changed. After investigation on institutions where the original texts of cookbooks are housed, the originals and copies were collected and a standard system to analyze Western cuisine was established for this study. The content analysis method was used to determine analysis criteria for the collected materials, and quantitative and qualitative analyses were performed. This study investigated cookbooks with records about Western cuisine to examine publication background and characteristics, the composition of each table of contents, frequency of records about Western cuisine, and recipes. The purpose of this study was to examine the origin of Westernized dietary lifestyle during the period when Western culture was introduced to the Korean peninsula and how Western cuisine was accepted in Korea from records in cookbooks.
This study found a total of 22 cookbooks with records about Western cuisine, including 「JoyangBanseo⌟(1899),「Joseonyorijebeop⌟(1917, 1918, 1921, 1924), 「Joseonmussangsinsigyorijebeop⌟(1924),「Dongseoyanggwajajejobeop⌟(1925),「Seonyeongdaejoseoyangyoribeop⌟(1930),「Joseonyorijebeop⌟(1931), 「Ganpyeonjoseonyorijebeop⌟(1934), 「SagyeuiJoseonyori⌟(1935, 1946), 「Irilhwaryong sinyeongyangyoribeop⌟(1935), 「Gajeongjubupildok⌟(1936, 1939),「Seoyangyorijebeop⌟(1937),「JeungbogaejeongJoseonyorijebeop⌟(1942), 「Dareunnaraeumsingmandeuneunbeop⌟(1957),「Jungdeungyorisilseup⌟(1958), 「Godeungyorisilseup⌟(1958), and 「Hanguge manneun seoyangyori⌟(1958). 「Joyang Banseo⌟(1899), the first Western cookbook found in Korea, was translated and published by Horace Grant Underwood, an American missionary. A printing house of Bajae School was established in 1896, and three years later, cookbooks began to be published. The period of the 1930s is a time when the largest number of cookbooks (eight cookbooks) were published. During the period, Koreans tried to get education and learn about new ideas in various fields and had interest in new publications, and there were an increasing number of printing houses. Hardcover and semi-hardcover books began to be published and this made publications sturdier. 「Seonyeongdaejo seoyangyoribeop⌟(1930) was the first Western cookbook published in hardcover in Korea. It is also the first book written in both English and Korean. The cookbook was written by Gyeongseong Western Women’s Society and published by Joseon Jesus Teaching Publication Society(朝鮮耶蘇敎書會). Joseon Jesus Teaching Publication Society is a publishing house founded by American missionaries, such as Underwood and Appenzeller. This study analyzed the content of Western cuisine recorded in modern Korean cookbooks and classified the cookbooks. As the cookbooks had records about Joseon, Japanese, Chinese and Western cuisine, they were classified into four groups. Cookbooks in Group A have records of all the cuisine-Joseon, Japanese, Chinese and Western cuisine. Those in Group B have records of Joseon and Western cuisine. Group C has records of only Western cuisine, and Group D has records of Chinese and Western cuisine. In Group C, the cookbooks with records of only Western food have all different tables of content, and the records include not only recipes but also measurement methods, how to use an oven, how to set the table in a Western way, and meal composition. Based on the standard system for analysis formulated, Western cuisine items recorded in the cookbooks were classified into different categories: sauce, salad dressing, salad, soup, meat, fish, poultry, egg, grain, vegetable, fruit, bread, pastry, cake, confectionery, sweets, pudding/dessert, ice cream, beverage, sandwich, jam, and others, and the recipes were examined. Cakes were the most high frequently recorded which represent 165 times. In the cookbooks cakes recorded a variety of cakes. Such as icing and frosting, sponge cakes, chocolate cakes, and buttercakes, Although with illustrations of the tools used to make the cake were inserted. Vegetables were recorded 159 times which was the second frequent after cakes. Potatoes had the highest record among vegetables, and there were various types of potato dishes such as mashed potatoes, baked potatoes, and boiled potatoes.
Western cuisine spread not only through cookbooks but also through Western grocery stores, restaurants, and cooking classes and naturally settled in dietary lifestyles of Koreans.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• Figure and Table Index iii
• 영문초록 v
• I. 서론 1
• 1. 연구 배경 1
• 2. 연구 목적 4
• II. 연구 방법 6
• 1. 연구 대상 및 시기 6
• 2. 연구 방법 6
• III. 근대 조리서의 특징과 출판 양상 12
• 1. 근대 조리서의 출판과 사회적 배경 12
• 2. 근대 조리서의 출판 양상과 특징 21
• Ⅳ. 근대 조리서의 서양요리 내용 분석 49
• 1. 근대 조리서의 내용 구성 49
• 2. 서양요리 분류에 따른 기록 빈도수 비교 62
• 3. 서양요리 분류에 의한 내용 분석 88
• 4. 서양요리가 근대 식생활에 미친 영향 131
• Ⅴ. 요약 및 결론 144
• Ⅵ. 참고문헌 147