KCI등재
韓國 在來 醬類製造史 : 특히 古農書類 나타난 醬類를 中心으로 Referred especially on Changes which appeared in Old Texts of Korean Agriculture = An History of the Manufacturing Technology of Korean Native 'Changes'(醬類:Fermented Soy sauce, Soy bean Mash and other related Soy Foods)
저자
발행기관
학술지명
권호사항
발행연도
1969
작성언어
Korean
KDC
800.000
등재정보
KCI등재
자료형태
학술저널
수록면
97-140(44쪽)
제공처
소장기관
According to the historical records, though the accurate origins were unknown, the history of Korean "Changs" may date back to about 1200 years ago. The age of early unified Shilla dynasty. The records reveal the first evidence of "Chang"―like soy products in this age. However, since it is generally believed that was imported from China about 2000 years ago, in the beginning of Sam-Kuk-age(三國時期初期) probably "Chang" manufacturing had started earlier.
The records on Korean "Changs", however, are available not until the early stage of Yi dynasty. Undoubtedly during these long unrecorded period, the "Changs" manufacturing technology might had developed to certain degrees, since Koreans had been using continuously "Changs" as the basic cereal supplementing foods. But there is noway to know the history. In the records of the early Yi dynasty there appered, for the first time, the separate manufacturing and usage of Toenjang (fermented soybean mash) and Kanjang (soy sauce). Especially the Chinkanjang (陳甘醬―much concentrated or on aged soy sauce including Toenjang within) manufacturing was recorded already. These technology may be undoubtedly the result of long development during the unrecorded period.
Later ku-Hwang-Chal-Yo (救荒撮要; a guide book for the relief of farmine) which was published in the age king Myung-Chong (明宗)recorded the various aspects of "Chang" manufacturing technology. According to this book, the "Chang" technology had especially progressed in the age of king Sae-Chong. (世宗). Koreans started to use wheat flour as the raw material of Toenjang meju (메주, soy sauce and soybean mash fermenting startar) in addition to soybean. A new device of expressing of soy sauce from soy sauce waste was also invented at that time. Therefor it can be said that the separate or independent manufacture of Kanjang and Toenjang was Completed in this age.
According to the Sa-Si-Chan-Yo (四時纂要; a monthly farm guide) which was published in the year of king Hyo-Chong(孝宗) the "Changs" manufacturing had became one of the annual practices of Korean family and various kinds of characteristic "Changs" Kae-Chang (蟹醬), Jup-Chang (汁醬), Po-Chang (泡醬) were listed as the popular "Changs" at that times. Probably the fundamental technologies of many specific "Changs" manufacturing had been gradually established from the begining of the Yi dynasty to this age together with the development of food substitutes.
A large modification in "Chang" manufacturing technology was brought in the middle ages of Yi dynasty. According to San-Lim-Kyung-Chai(山林經濟; a scientific encyclopedia) Chung-Chang (汁醬; the same as Kanjang) and Toenjang were described as the general purpose "Chang" of daily use and Jup-Chang (汁醬), Chung-Kuk-Chang (淸國醬) and Tam-Su-Chang (淡水醬) were listed as the popular specific "Changs" at that time. A new specific "Chang", Man-Cho-Chang (蠻椒醬, red pepper sauce) was deviced also in this age.
Amang them the Chung-Chang is basically similar to the Present type of Korean Kanjang. It was described to be prepared entirely from soybean and Toenjang was the by-product of soy-souce, Undoubtedly the Present Korean Kanjang manufacturing technology may derive its origin to this Chung-Chang, using entirely soybean as the sole raw material. Probably further minor modifications, continued to improve "Chang" manufacturing technology and to adapt for home making method and scale, but essentially the similar "Chang" products which originated in the middle ages of Yi dynasty were conveyed to the present.
Thus we can list the present day "Changs" as follows.;
Chung-Chang, Toenjang, Nam-Cho-Chang (the same as Man-Cho-Chang) Jup-Chang, Chung-Kuk-Chang, Tam-Su-Chang. Among them the Chung-Chang and Nam-Cho-Chang are the only products of extensive general use by Korean of the Present day and others are only for occasional uses for an epicurism etc.
The manufacturing procedures of present Korean Kanjang and Toenjang consist of three major steps; that is, the preparation of Meju, Kanjang fermentation, and expressing of sauce. The history of development of these three Kanjang manufacturing procedures are as the follows.
I) The history of Kanjang-Meju Preparation method-
The first record of Meju is found is San-Lim-Kyung-Jai. In this text it was described as: Cooked soy beans were mashed and made into small clumps and they were left in the room covered with brossonetia leaves, straw, grass leaves or morus bombysis leaves: Probably for microorganisms grow. From the middle ages Yi dynasty the Mejus were left piled in straw woven bages. The present day method, hanging the Mejus under the ceiling with straw ropes in the room, had been already described in the above San-Lim-Kyung-Jai also.
It had been generally recogniged in the old texts of agriculture that coverage of Meju by yellow molds (黃衣) yielded good results. Without the present knowledge of pure culture technique of microbiology, it might hardly be expected to have a good growth of yellow molds by such primitive methods of Meju preparation, we can imagine. Probably such conditions rather might had favored the growth of bacteria and making Meju to Natto type soy product. We can think only of the effect of grass coverage on a good growth of yellow molds.
There appeared many other very specific methods of Meju preparations described in the old texts, but none of them survived to be practiced and accepted among Koreans until to the present day.
2) The history of Kanjang fermentation-
Until the middle age of Yi-dynasty Chin-Kanjang fermentation method which had been a device chiefly to obtain much concentrated soysauce so that it used small quantities of brine compared to the amount of Meju had been practiced.
Later the tendency had come to obtain more quantities of dilute soy sauce and from the end of Yi dynasty the present day Chung-Chang fermentation method had emerged. This method has been using Meju: salt: water in the quantity ratio of 1 : 1 : 4.
3) History of method of expressing soy sauce-
In the beginning the soy sauce had not been expressed from soybean mash but the whole mixtures had been consumed as "Chang". From the beginning of Yi dynasty as the need of soy sauce alone had become large the expressing method started to develope. In Ku-Hwang-Chal-Yo expressing by wood curtain was already described. In the middle ages of Yi dynasty, a hole was made in "Chang" and sauce exeeded in the hole was scooped out, or Yong-Su (a bamboo woven basket) were used to separate soy sauce from "Chang". From the end of Yi dynasty the present filtration method (for ex. using sive) were started to be used.
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