Watteau와 Rococo의 服飾意匠에 關한 硏究 : Antoine Watteau를 中心으로 Focused on Antoine Watteau = A Study on the Costume Design of Watteau and Rococo
저자
許甲暹 (誠信女子大學校 家政大學 衣類織物學科 )
발행기관
성신여자대학교 생활문화연구소(THE INSTITUTE OF LIVING CULTURE SUNGSHIN WOMEN'S UNIVERSITY)
학술지명
권호사항
발행연도
1988
작성언어
Korean
KDC
590.4
자료형태
학술저널
수록면
9-27(19쪽)
제공처
소장기관
As the modern fashion design is influenced on the development of modern industries as well as expressions by the past real life, the ideal of costume design by each different period would be repersentative of the sociological ideology, and at the same time, it would be reflected on the culture expressed on the background of a certain period and nations to symbolize politic, economy, thoughts, etc.. The form of costume design is not related with the history to arrange only the from, and the fashio design is repeated by the coming new mode for a certain period, and also it is repersentative of the peoples experssions who lived in the period.
With the above thoughts, it was examined on the fact that the cultural art of fashion design was controlled by France as a superpower country from the political and economical standpoint since 17th century and the painting of Antoine Watteau who was pleased to paint the matrix of costume design that the 18th century's brilliant Rococo Royan court culture was more vigorously developed, and finally it was aimed at planning the effect of the contemporary costume design on today's design art and the more better aesthetic creation.
The art of Rococo was a general term of formative mode based of ornament. The name of ornament was come from rocaille and it was used for various such as wall side, ceiling, furniture, etc., of interior decoration, mainly, as a motif of unbalanced ornament. These tendencies can be found in fashion design as well, and delicate and elegant linear beauty was well expressed on the costume ornament for any other periods as a motif of various ornaments such as frill, ribbon, loop, textile dseign, flower basket, and so forth.
Mainly with the Royal court, cultures are repersentative from the social life of nobles and wealthy people, and the noble and social power for the Royal court of salon is the characteristic or Rococo culture. A fashion design, women's dress developed the noble culturt centering around salon, played a role of improtant interior decoration at social club. With such polished sense of enjoyed life, the painting of Antoine Watteau who turned up the salon culture and become a founder by drawing the truthfulness of a pathetic scene with his feeling and these delicate costumes has a Rococo characteristic. The costume called Watteau pleats gown, a beautiful expression of reverse pleats of women's image expressed in the painting is continued to Marie Antoinette.
The costume of a person expressed as a novel for floating lind and colors with an elegant character and poetic surroundings, as a background of rural scene or garden for those contemporary life emotions, become a real example. The costrume called Watteau pleats gown is proved from the diary do those literary works that it was actually hand draffting and possessed by Watteau and drawn with a model by a necessity. Therefore, it was well expressed on a picture for the life of the period to some extent to understand each to those Rococo period through the design do Watteau pleats gown or fabric for those noble women in these costumes. For example, we can find that comparing the earlier period's Watteau pleats gown is rich and comfortable gown, the forehead waistline is just fitted by passing the period and rear center of Watteau pleats was arranged with the regular pleats. Moreover, the early period of fabric design was large in the flower design, and it is more smaller by passing the period.
The image experssed on the Wattear's painting with various life emotion, as above described, is not representative of the period that it was arranged independent of an image in the costume and developed for the costume. As it painted on a picture for those life emotions and as one thing for the space of whole canvas, its life is not only exited, but also its significance is realized. In other words, the costume is not to control the society at that time for those arranged human images and develop the culture.
It was expressed an internal spirit for those human beings, and therefore, the life is existed as it is harmonized with the mutual relation from the general relation. Those society was controlled by the experssion of those emotions and it was repersentative of the culture. Threrfore I woule like to stress that the all formative activity is related with one's spiritual expression in human life. In addition, it can be found that the social change of the period is significantly effected on the fashion design.
The above examination understands the changing process of the costume design through those creative life emotion, and it is expected to become an opportunity to plan an originaltiy in the fashion design of industrial society by today's our mass production.
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